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Nestled at the top of the Poqueira Gorge, Capileira is the second highest of all the pueblos blancos (white villages) in Spain, set at about 1400 metres.
From the village the views are utterly magnificent, with the snow-capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada in Autumn and winter as a backdrop to the North, and the distant coast of Africa across the sparkling Mediterranean to the South.
The quality of air and of light here is superb. Colour is clean clear and bright, and contrasts of light and shade are strong and sharp. And yet sometimes the effects of atmospheric conditions can render this vast landscape into a rich palette of immense delicacy and subtlety.
The surrounding countryside is a wonderful haven for some quite exotic wildlife, and offers a wealth of possibilities for the painter, (provided you are reasonably able-bodied!) There are wildflower meadows and waterfalls, orchards and olive groves, rocky canyons and terraced farmlands. Within the village the ancient white houses stand amid a tangle of quaint and shady alleys, all beautifully bedecked with flowers on their balconies. There are inspirational subjects to be found everywhere, and the intensity of the light enhances everything to an almost magical degree.
The village itself is well provided with a range of bars shops and restaurants. Facilities include a pharmacy, two bakeries, a bank with a cash machine, two small supermarkets, regular deliveries of fresh fish from the coast, and a colourful weekly fruit and veg market. There is an interesting variety of retail outlets for locally made crafts and gastronomic produce, and two Art Galleries.
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You can watch genuine Flamenco being performed, and there are various other live music events staged in small venues around the area on a regular basis.
In summary, Capileira is a small but cosmopolitan village which attracts visitors from all over the globe. It is full of charm and character, with a warm and welcoming community atmosphere which will capture your heart.
The nearest town of any size is Orgiva which lies within the river valley of the Guadalfeo, at the foot of the Alpujarras. This small market town has long been a magnet for creative ex-pats, and now has a strong alternative culture. Gerald Brennan, Robert Graves and, more recently, Chris Stewart (of Driving Over Lemons fame), have all been drawn to write about the area.
The coastal resorts and beaches are about an hours drive away, and the splendours of the smart and cosmopolitan city of Granada can be reached by road in about an hour and a half. Skiing can be enjoyed from the ski resort there in the cooler months when there is snow.
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The very popular Alhambra Palace in Granada is well worth a visit, but booking must be made well in advance. This can be done through their web site: www.alhambra-tickets.es or by phone: 0034 934 92375. Tickets are approximately 13€ (February 2008). The trip to the Alhambra from Capileira can be arranged. Please enquire for details.
For the really adventurous, there is a minibus service providing transport to and from the lower slopes of mainland Spains highest mountain, the great Mulhacen (3482 metres). From the dropping off point it is possible to walk to the summit in three hours, taking in some of the most diverse flora and fauna in the world, not to mention some seriously stunning scenery!
For non-painting partners other activities include horse riding, guided walks, bird watching, mountain-biking excursions and paragliding.
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